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Sam Fine In Lagos | Part 3 Sam Fine X MAC Nigeria Masterclass Step by Step Makeup Application + Tips & Tricks

We are back, this time with a step by step makeup application by the amazing Sam Fine. If you missed his recent appearances in Lagos; you definitely want to read this!

*Warning: Long post ahead, proceed with caution ;P

Beautiful Aduke before…
-Start with moisturizer to make the skin a bit wet and ready for foundation
-Concealer 2-3 shades lighter than her complexion. In the centre of her face; under eyes, centre of her forehead, down the centre of her nose, cupids bow and chin.

*You want to pick a lighter shade that still looks natural to her skin tone and not ashy.
*Don’t forget to go around her mouth because women of colour usually have discolouration there.

-Apply her own shade of foundation, matched to her jawline to the rest of her face

*To build coverage do not drag, stipple with a wedge.
*Go over the highlight (concealer) a bit to really make it blend and disappear into the rest of the face.
*Wedges over brushes because I like to place product as opposed to spreading it. You could try placing your creams with a wedge and them spreading liquid with a brush over the rest of the face

-Go over the highlight with an even brighter highlight. This is possible because creams are very mailable so can be blended and moved until you set them in powder
-Go 3 to 4 shades darker for the contour to bring back some warmth to her skin. You can do this in cream or you can use a darker powder or bronzer. Round her hairline, under her cheek bones and from the brow straight down the sides of her nose with the edge of the sponge. Then go back in with her own shade of foundation to blend it out. 

*Highlight and contour allows you to bring back dimension to her face in a more controlled manner.

-To add more dimension to the look especially if your model has a ponytail add sheer black pigment to the hairline as the darkest part of your contour around the hairline. Sheer black pigment can also be used to darken foundation when finding a contour shade dark enough is a challenge 
-Go over the under eye area again and blend with the sponge you used before to clean it up.

-Separate a 2 ply tissue and dab off the excess oil. This makes it look more like skin.
-Set the under eye with loose powder. 

*Loose powder over pressed because it has less coverage and can easily be whisked away. I don’t bake to avoid excess drying.

-Set the contour
-Apply blush, with a large blush brush for a light application

*If you need help finding the cheek ask mode to suck it in so you can create a line just above the hollow from the top of her ear down towards her mouth, then have her smile to follow the cheek curve in the cheek

-Add subtle highlight to the top of the cheeks for more dimension

-Go over eyelids with a bit of foundation, really just what is left on the sponge
-Apply loose powder under the eyes “Security”to catch fall out
-Apply a light matte eye shadow in a shade close to her skin tone in the open space of her eye lid with a flat eye shadow brush with natural bristles to create a clean yet subtle edge

-With matte black eye shadow and an angled brush, cut the crease
-Then blend out with a brown and take the brown all the way in to connect with the nose contour
-Gradually build the crease…
-Finally blend with a full brush for seamless transition
-Line the lower lash line with a small tight brush and black eyeshadow, then blend out with a fuller brush

-Apply lashes and fan them to dry. Once dry apply mascara and curl to fuse natural lashes with false lashes

*Use a regular mascara for the lop lashes and one with a tiny brush for the bottom lashes to avoid mistakes

-Add a final touch of drama with a glitter spray

-Brush hairs in place with clear mascara
-To create dimension on the brows use 2/3 shades of brow pencils. Creating very light strokes that mimic hair

-Brown lip liner and lipstick to line the lips then nude lipstick in the middle.
-Add gloss in the middle of the lip
-Add a burst of glitter (spray) for some more drama…
That’s it! I tried my best to illustrate these points with pictures but to be honest its just not the same as watching it happen right before you. 

Missed the class and want to watch these tips in action rather than just read them? Buy his DVD! We still have a few copies at the studio AND Sam graciously autographed them just for you!



All this is for your benefit, so that the grace that is reaching more and more people may cause thanksgiving to overflow to the glory of God. Therefore we do not lose heart. Though outwardly we are wasting away, yet inwardly we are being renewed day by day.” 2 Corinthians 4:15-16


  • Dobzi fingers
    Posted December 18, 2016 at 5:20 PM

    Hi Stella,I was wondering…can a beauty blender or beauty sponge be used in place of a wedge sponge?

  • Stella's Addiction
    Posted May 20, 2019 at 12:42 PM

    Yup! You sure can.

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